Oak and tile flooring

Now that the renovation has moved downstairs I had to face up to one of the worst jobs. Shopping.

The lounge is going to be floorboarded and the kitchen area tiled, so to proceed much further floorboards and tiles need to be bought and a staircase chosen.

I used pine floorboards upstairs but really wanted oak or chestnut downstairs. It's much tougher, looks better and is more in keeping with an old cottage. Looking around the DIY shops, oak and chestnut floorboards came in at about 80 euros/m2. For a 40m2 space that really starts to get expensive. Fortunately someone recommended going direct to a sawmill to save money. This turned out to be a really good idea. We visited two sawmills, one in Combourg and another near St. Brieuc and had a surf on the 'net. It was really nice to see trees going in one end and finished flooring etc. coming out the other end. Kind of felt more satisfying to buy than from a DIY store.

The choice at the sawmills was a bit daunting, various widths, lengths and knottyness (quality) to choose from, but eventually we settled on some 15cm wide oak tongue and groove planks with lengths varying from 1m to 2m. There is a 3 week delay and then we should leave the wood to aclimatise in the room for another 2 weeks, but at least that was one job done and for 50 euro/m2. Well worth shopping around.

Floor and wall tiles next. I don't find making decisions on colour combinations that easy, and choosing the wrong colour floor tiles can really affect the style and limit later choices for wall and kitchen colours. Anyway, after much head scratching and umming and arhing we chose light terracotta style floor tiles and, a bit boring, white bathroom tiles. We did get some coloured border tiles to brighten things up a little.

All the tiles, grout, adhesive etc. was brought from a large DIY store in St. Brieuc. Normally it about a 40 minute drive. However with the trailer and car full of tiles we were seriously overloaded. I reckon the trailer was several hundred kilos overweight on it's own. Just to get the tyres back to a roughly round shape took a while with the air hose.

Driving back was certainly a bit of a hairy experience. Any faster than 70kmh (40 mph) caused snaking and bouncing and something not to be recommended. It's a bit scary going that slow on main roads. The journey back took 30 minutes longer than normal and it was a relief to get back in one piece.

It's very easy to under-estimate the weight of tiles.

Lime Rendering

Apart from a couple of small bits of in-fill around the dormer windows all the plasterboarding upstairs is now finished. I didn't have any scrap pieces large enough and I didn't want to use up a whole board just for a small bit. Once I start plasterboarding downstairs I can use any larger off-cuts to finish upstairs.

The last couple of days have been spent lime rendering an internal cob and stone wall. I could have just stuck plasterboard over it but I thought it would look a little more authentic and rustic with a traditional lime render.

The lime render is made up of just lime (Chaux blanche hydraulique naturelle), sand and water. The instructions on the bag said one sack of lime (35kg), 11 buckets of sand (10L buckets) and two buckets of water. However after chucking the water, lime and half the sand in the mixer we realised the mixer was too small and had to spend along time juggling the contents of the mixer and two wheelbarrows taking half out, adding sand, removing some, adding back etc. etc. Not a good start.

Lime renderNever having plastered before it was a real steep learning curve and through trial and error we finally got all the render on the wall. At first it was a real problem getting it to stick. I had brushed all the loose dust off, but just pushing it on with the float didn't really work very well. The mix was quite creamy, but gritty with the sand. Wetting the wall with a water spray helped alot but the technique that really worked was to throw the render onto the wall, flicking it quite hard, then spread it out with a float.

The hardest part was keeping a wet edge as you worked. If the edge dried out at all it was really tough to blend in the adjacent new render without leaving a line or bump.

With hindsight, I think we should had wetted the wall much more, and thrown the lime render much harder at the wall. As it dried out it did crack in quite a few places and a couple of spots sounded a little hollow where it had not stuck quite right. It certainly looks rustic tho'

Overall we covered about 30 square meters of wall in a day and a half and used around 6 bags of lime. Really hard work and not something I want to do again in a hurry.

Plasterboarding, and more plasterboarding

Plastic plumbingThe blog has been a bit quiet recently because I've just been plasterboarding everyday for the last month and there isn't much to see apart from grey rooms.

Almost all the upstairs has been boarded out. Three bedrooms, corridor, landing and two bathrooms finished. The photo shows the plumbing for one of the bathrooms from about a week or so ago. This bathroom also has a suspended toilet and shows the hot and cold water pipes in place before boarding. Each water supply is a single point-to-point feed supplied from a downstairs manifold next to the boiler. The advantage is that there are no joints behind walls etc. and the only connections required are at the end of each run on the tap/appliance. Connections are made with a simple compression fixing onto the plastic pipe. Two sizes of pipework are in place, 12mm for sinks and toilets; 16mm for showers and baths.

All the electrical cabling is also now in place for the sockets, heaters and lighting. I've also cabled up every room with a TV/Satellite/Radio co-ax connection and two RJ45 sockets with Cat 5e cable. Again all the TV and Internet cabling goes back to a central point to a patch board for connection to the router, TV distribution and telephone. The telephones can be plugged into the RJ45 sockets. Hopefully the system should be flexible enough to cater for most eventuallities. I might even be able to run network booted thin clients connect to a cental media server for video/music etc. in each room.

Hopefully by the end of next week all the plasterboarding upstairs should be finished and I'll have some photos of the rooms.

Stud walling

Stud wallingWe've had a couple of really productive days this week. As you can see from the photo there has been a start with the stud walling for two of the bedrooms and the bathroom.

All the studwork is done with metal U shaped track and it slots together to create the walls. The plasterboard is then screwed with self tapping screws onto the framework. As you can see there are also two doors fitted. These come complete with the door frame and a rebate that the metal rails just slot into. Very easy indeed.

Now that much of the preparation work is done things are starting to move more quickly.

Plasterboarding started

It's taken along time to get here but the plaster boarding has finally started. Only one ceiling mine, but it's a start.

The plasterboard delivery didn't come until Monday this week, 150 sheets, three pallet loads. Monday afternoon was very tiring moving all the boards inside. It wasn't helped by the wind along with rain and hail showers. We had to keep stopping and covering the boards, then rushing between breaks in the weather. The plasterboard comes in pairs stuck together with a strip of paper each end. We started by moving them in pairs, but by the end of the afternoon two sheets was too heavy and we had to split each pair and move them singularly. Exhausting.

Whilst waiting for the plaster boards the other half of the house upstairs has been floorboarded in a similar way to before. The first side took two days to complete but this half took three days. The problem was that the existing oak floorboards were very uneven and warped with some large height differences (up to 50mm) in places. I used some large sheets of chipboard/OSB3 in the center of the room to pack up the floor but nearly every board required additional packing wedges and shims to level everything off towards the edges of the room. At least I've now got a fairly level and flat floor to work from.

Suspended ToiletThe other jobs this last week of so was to put up some studwork around the edges of the room and fit the framework for a suspended toilet in the bathroom. The suspended toilet kit comes with a metal frame with the cistern/flush integrated into the construction and then the bowl is bolted on later after tiling. They are a little more expensive but save quite a bit of space and are easier to clean as you can just mop underneath.

The garden has also seen some changes. Debbie has been over the garden with a rotovator to breakup and level the soil after the diggers churned it all up putting in the septic tanks. We do have a garden plan, but the lack of time and huge number of jobs, I think we are going to just grass the whole area for now and plant a few shrubs and trees to get things started. There's plenty of time later to finish the garden.

So with the ceiling up in one side I can start next week putting up the internal walls and doorways.

Ceiling studwork

With the floorboards laid I could now proceed with the ceiling.

Ceiling battens detailThe plasterboard for the ceiling is screwed to metal rails suspended from the rafters I fixed in last week. From the photo you can see a complete rail and bracket fixed to the rafter. Resting on top of the rail is a scrap piece and the bracket to show how it fits together. The brackets are simply screwed to the rafters at 40cm centers and once in place the rail is pushed onto the brackets and hangs there.

As usual getting everything level was important. The hardest part of the job was the measuring and levelling. It's really difficult on your own to measure long distances or hold a level with one hand and measure with the other whilst up a ladder. In the end I used bits of string stretched tightly across the room at the correct height. It did mean a lot of up and down and moving step ladders but I got there in the end. The bottom edge of the rail is set at 2.5 meters (plus 13mm for the plasterboard) above the lowest point of the finished floor height. Using the strings as guides each bracket is screwed to the rafters. Various lengths of brackets are available, so it's not too important that the rafters are level as the brackets take up any slack.

Ceiling constructionAll the brackets and rails in place as shown. Personally I find that using this metal rail system really easy and prefer it to using wood. Also there is no danger of rot or woodworm and all the rails are straight and consistent. Now the rails are up I can order my plasterboard and fit the electric cabling for ceiling lights and put up the plasterboard. With the ceiling in place the internal stud walling can be considered.

At last things are starting to take shape.

Floorboarding

FloorboardsMy goal this week was to get the metal ceiling channels installed on the new rafters ready for the plasterboard. However before putting up the metalwork I had to lay the floorboards to ensure I had the correct floor to ceiling height and to give myself a level/flat datum to work from.

The existing floor was old pine floorboards but unfortunately they have suffered over the years with woodworm (now treated) and a fair bit of damage in places. They were also a little springy and had dips in places where the oak beams below have settled and sagged over time.

I did consider running a sander over the whole floor but a small test area didn't come up well and all the boards have been fixed by nailing through the boards with large headed nails making sanding almost impossible.

The replacement boards are 15cm wide tongue and groove maritime pine. As you can see from the photo I've laided them perpendicular to the existing boards. This seems to have helped stiffen the whole floor and mostly taken out the lumps and bumps. There is a little packing in places which I just slipped in as I went along. I wasn't aiming for the perfect flat floor as it is a 500 year old building.

The first row of boards across the space was crucial to get right and took quite a bit of fiddling around with tape measures and pythagoraus to make sure the whole lot was square. The first row was placed with the groove against the wall and nailed in place into the floor leaving the tongues on the working edge towards me. Working from left to right across the room each new row was fitted and tapped home with a piece of scrap board slotted over the tongue to protect it from the hammer. I used 50mm lost head nails hammered at a angle through the tongue into the old boards below. The nail heads were then punched below the surface with a nail punch. The waste from the board cut to length on the right hand side was used to start the new row on the left hand side giving a staggered finish across the floor.

The whole exercise was relatively easy except when there was a bowed board in the pack. It took a few banana shaped boards to realise what was making it difficult to make all the floorboards fit snuggly together. Once a small gap creeps in the error just compounds itself making the job harder and harder. I ended up leaving out the bowed boards as I didn't have any way of clamping the boards together. I've since found out that I could have used those speed cramps and turned the cramping end around so it expands and pushes against a temporary batten. Also the Readers Digest website showed a technique using a baten and a wedge to push bowed boards together. I know for the next time.

Anyway, floor in, and now I can move on to the ceiling.

Ceiling rafters installed

Rafters for ceilingWell all my stuff arrived Monday morning first thing on the lorry. Piles of wood, insulation and metal studwork bits.

Some of it has gone to preparing the ceiling on one side of the house. This side has a flat ceiling 2.5m high (the length of a plasterboard), whilst the other side is plasterboarded between all the woodwork up to the ridge. The reason is partly to gain a little loft space and somewhere for various bit of ventilation and pipework to run.

The rafters are fixed just over 2.5m above the finished floor height and then metal track is suspended on small hangars perpendicular to the rafters. The plasterboard is then screwed to the metal track, hopefully flat and level with the floor. By getting the height correct the stud walls should be easy as they just pop straight in without cutting :-)

Two downstairs windows fitted

Been busy this week juggling several jobs.

Two new windows have been fitted downstairs. The replacement windows are just direct swaps for the old windows, but as usual with old houses nothing is ever quite that simple. Getting the old windows out took much longer than anticipated. The old wooden windows had been cemented in place along with some metal brackets cemented into the stonework inside. Removing the old windows meant lots of chipping away around the frame to get all the old mortar out. The downside was that once removed, the inside face of the brickwork was not vertical or very flat. Not ideal for the new windows.

The first two pictures show some batons of wood fixed around the inside of the window to provide a guide for adding mortar (strong mix) to the inside face of the window opening. The brickwork was about 1.5cm off vertical between top and bottom. Once the mortar was set it was actually easy to fit the new windows, just a bead of silicon and some simple metal angle brackets to screw the window home. Between the sill and the bottom of the window I also added an expanding waterproof foam strip, compriband, for extra protection against water ingress.

Preparation for new window Correcting window frame New window fitted New downstairs window

Whilst the mortar for the windows was setting I was also able to tackle the old fireplace in the kitchen. As in the lounge this was once a traditional, very large, Breton fireplace (a bit like an inglenook) but also bricked up with a smaller breeze block fireplace painted green and brown! The kitchen didn't need a fireplace so it was to be demolished and blocked up. The chimney stack will be re-used by the house next door. Once all the breeze block was removed and the concrete hearth lifted I found, yet again, the original granite mantlepiece. Fortunately this time it was in one piece and in good condition. I intend to use this to re-create the hearth in the renovation fireplace in the lounge.

Original kitchen fireplace Removing old kitchen fireplace Fireplace removed Recovered granite lintel

And if all that wasn't enough I've also been shopping for materials. I've bought 80 square meters of maritime pine floorboards to plank out upstairs. Fortunately the local supermarket had a promo on for various DIY tools and I bought a 2 tonne chain hoist (palan a chaine) for just 24 euros. It made light work getting all the floorboards upstairs and also came in useful to lift the granite mantelpiece out of the floor.

Floorboards hoisted to first floorI've also ordered from the builders merchants loads of wood, metalwork for stud walling and insulation. That all arrives tomorrow morning, so I'm going to be fairly busy for a while. I did originally also have 400 square meters of plasterboard coming but I've delayed that for now, otherwise it just gets in the way.

Oh, alongside all this activity Debbie has also been doing some garden designing. The weather has really started to feel like spring for the last few days which has spurred us on about the garden.

No rest around here recently.

New electric and water supplies

Stone wall before cleaningBoth the electric board, EDF, and the water board, SAUR, arrived this week to do their jobs. I asked EDF to move the current electric meter from the wall next to the fireplace into the laundry room next to the kitchen. The lounge wall with the meter on it is going to be left as exposed stone. The guys moved the meter ok but with much huffing and puffing about drilling through the wall and fixing the new meter. Everything just seemed to be a hassle for them. Maybe they were having a bad day ? They also fitted a box outside, I assume with various extra control bits for cheap rate electric and remote meter reading. Once they had gone I just roughly connected up the supply to my new fuse box with some spare cable to give me light and power for coffee etc.

Stone wall after cleaningWith the old meter gone it meant I could pressure wash the stone work to clean it up ready for pointing. The large white bit in the prior photo is where the old meter was ‘stuck’ to the wall with white ‘cement’. I think it’s come up really well, and should look great once it’s pointed up. It certainly helped a great deal that Debbie spent a day or so scraping out the mud and old pointing from between all the stones. When I pressure washed the faces of the stones there was an awful lot of muddy water spraying around and without cleaning out the joints beforehand I don’t think it would have got as clean.

SAUR also came to supply the second house with a new water supply and meter. They came and dug holes either side of the road then must have had some sort of tunneling machine to feed the new supply under the road, cos the road surface remained intact. I missed this part of the operation because the guys came, did their job without fuss. I’ve just got to connect my side up to their meter.